My principal home now is at Ginty Creek. It has become nearly impossible to winter at Nuk Tessli, the fly-in ecotourism resort I started 22 years ago, since I have difficulty finding a ski plane to take me in and out, and I can no longer do the gruelling, 4-day winter treks to reach it on land.   Ginty Creek is still fairly remote, being three and a half hours’ drive from the nearest traffic light or bank machine, far from cell-phone or radio frequencies, and distant enough from neighbours to be unable to see a single man-made light at night, not even a glow, apart from the occasional high-altitude plane or satellite winking among the stars.